.....SPANISH STROLL , spanish stroll...........

.....' I am a Pilgrim , and a stranger.....
      Travelling through this wearisome land '..........

.......And so , picking up the trail from the previous posting , we headed down into Pamplona. The centre , the old town , still retains its character , and we duly sat and had a beer at Hemingway's favorite bar , Cafe Iruna............. 

.......and at least they have the sense to leave these bars as they are - there are very few traditional pubs now left in the UK other than ones preserved by English Heritage - ' The Vines ' and ' The Philharmonic ' in Liverpool , the ' Crown ' in Belfast .

Early the following morning we entered Pamplona Cathedral as it was opening , and for an hour or so had the place pretty much to ourselves , wandering around and appreciating the many chapels and altarpieces. The cathedral has been restored in recent years , particular attention being given to the lighting , and the re-painting of certain architectural features has been carried out with sensitivity. The side chapels house some particularly interesting pieces , and the whole interior felt that morning very uplifting.

This piece in particular caught my eye - its the Reredos of Christ of Caparroso - a Flemish piece from the late 15th century . The sixteen panels are formally structured in four rows of four , each panel depicting a prophet from the Old Testament , and whilst each panel adheres to the same design each one is different , interpreting the formal discipline in its own way . Over these is laid a carving of Christ on the Cross , perhaps not as accomplished as the previous example at Roncevalles but extremely moving in its setting.

Further on through the Cathedral , at the far end of the Canons' dormitory , now a  museum devoted to musical instruments used by the clergy , we came across the Chapel of Pedro de Roda - completely bare other than two simple statues , lit by alabaster windows and with a recording of gregorian / moorish plainsong quietly playing ; peaceful  and quiet , the atmosphere was sublime .

Leaving Pamplona - regretfully - we travelled on along the Camino to Puenta La Reina , where the last of the main pilgrim routes - this time from Arles via the Col du Somport and Jaca ,joins the main path . The Church of the Crucifix welcomes travellors , and there is a most impressive gilded altar piece taking up the whole of the end wall..............

.......and the floor ............just a wooden , timber floor , but have another look at it - an oak floor with boards some 600mm  or so wide . Kiln dried oak boards 600mm wide ? ...in this day and age irreplaceable .

.....and finally , at the end of the Rua Major , the wondeful Romanesque pilgrims bridge out over the Rio Arga and on towards Santiago. This is as far as we got this time , but maybe next year ..............who knows ?

 ...A brief note on the upcoming Film of the Week - you will have missed it , everyone will have missed it as it only had a limited release , ie. one wet thursday to an art house cinema in London to about seven people , but no worries - it's out on DVD at the end of October ......and Martin Sheen DID walk The Way..... Enjoy.